We debated about whether to stay one more night in San Sebastián but at the end of the day the car had to be in Barcelona on the 8th before 1.00pm and Chris was not keen to make the trip in one day. We packed up the car and made our way across the countryside towards Barcelona.
When you imagine the Spanish county side what do you imagine? Are you like me and imagine a dry rocky landscape intersperced with some half dead foliage? Well, that’s what I imagined – but the Northern part of Spain in spring is completely different – as lush and green as New Zealand, with the snow capped Pyrenees in the background and a mineral green river running through it. It was so lovely and then occasionally we would come around a corner and see a beautiful old castle or a medieval hill top village. Stunning!
Chris kept stopping the car so that we could take pictures and so when he wanted to stop for lunch at what looked like a Spanish version of a truck stop, the kids and I protested. It was around 2.30 in the afternoon and the car park was packed with cars and trucks but Chris was insistent he needed a break (fair enough I guess as he did all the driving). Inside it was packed with truckers and workmen in small groups and local families. We were guided to a table that had just been vacated and presented with a menu offering a three course lunch with wine for 12 euros. As usual however, we could not read it. Chris has an amazing app however that allowed us to scan the menu and it gave us the English translation – hurray – and soon we were eating white beans and chorizo stew (gorgeous), pasta for a Nick and chicken and chips for Michael. It was amazing – really excellent food, and it costs us 6 euros each including the wine.
Soon we were back on the road and headed for our destination – a kind of farm house B&B in the middle of nowhere. As we got closer the scenery changed – enormous red rocks emerging from the landscape (kind of like Uluru!).
We had arrived at our farm house, greeted the English speaking host and admired the relaxing and authentic decor.
It was 5pm and we had little time to explore the area. However our host impressed upon us the need to see the local castle at Loarre which was one of the best preserved examples in the whole of Europe. How could we resist? Nick was having no part of it (he is “castled out” from our last trip) but we forced a complaining Michael into the car and drove 15 minutes to the east through villages that look so much like the medieval villages in the south of France on the other side of the Pyrenees, and up the hill to a magnificent castle! It was indeed extremely well preserved and the view from this fortress across the plains below was stunning.
Apparently this Spanish king was guarding against the invading Moors and there is an excellent Holy Grail story linked to this region (which I will have to research to find out about), but by the 1600s there was no more need for castle living and the royal famaily has recamped to the plains below. Isn’t it completely stunning?
By the time we returned home it was nearly dinner time. We had elected to stay at the house for dinner with the host’s wife cooking. Good decision!!! The best meal we have had in Europe. Home made bread that was the best I have ever eaten (sort of a light but grainy baguette), wild boar pate, a charcuterie board with ham that melted in our mouths, salad, fish soup, veal steaks….We had ordered chicken cooked in dried fruit for Michael but he refused to touch it – nicest chicken I have ever tasted. We will be back to this awesome place and next time we’ll stay longer. (Does anyone reading this blog get the impression that I am obsessed with food?!? )