Well here we are, back in Paris after 3 years away. After a gruelling 24 hour flight, with around 20 hours in darkness, we stumbled from the airport and emerged into the pale spring sunshine and into wonderful, wonderful Paris.
This time we are staying in the beautiful neighbourhood of Le Marais. This upmarket, artistic neighbourhood is full of wonderful cafes, restaurants and artisan shops. I have never seen so many wonderful shops, full of beautiful things. Chris and I have walked and walked- exploring until we cannot walk another step. I can only hope that all this walking will save me – because I have fallen off the LCHF wagon big time.
The baguettes are as wonderful as we remembered and we’ve bought and eaten 5 already today. It doesn’t help that we slather it in thick creamy butter and oozing French cheese – but it is so, so, so good that way.
We arrived in the late afternoon, poor Michael falling sleep in the taxi, and after settling into our cosy, but modern and comfortable apartment, we began exploring our neighbourhood. After an early dinner of baguette and cheese (yes I’m sure the French make other food but we’re really rather crazy about baguette – and cheese!) Chris dragged me off the sofa for a walk. With only 3 hours sleep in over 48 hours I didn’t think I’d get very far – but the beautiful back streets of Le Marais with their fascinating shop windows impelled me further and further along, until we found ourselves down by the river by Notre Dame and exploring the little island with its lovely shops, street entertainers and bars. We had a cup of coffee on the street watching people walking by (around $8 for a American coffee – what happened to great French prices?) and stumbled home to bed.
The next morning Chris and I were awake at 4.00am, so off we went again – walking and walking – past the Bastille watching the market stall owners setting up – and down by the river to watch the sun rise, along the river to the Louvre and Tuileries, and then back through the backstreets near Opera and back to Le Marais. All over it was about a 10km walk and I was feeling pretty tired.
The kids were finally up, so after breakfast (yes it did include a baguette) off we all went again. Chris and I hope we learned our lesson from last time we were in Paris. On that trip we were so excited, and we dragged the kids from one historical site and art gallery to another. The kids were exhausted and hated it and as a result they thought they weren’t that crazy about Paris. This time, we decided to do what the kids wanted to do – and that involved shopping. Nick wanted to buy a pair of Nike shoes (yes they sell those in Australia too – but that’s what Nick wanted) and Michael just wanted to spend money! Once again we explored the backstreets of Le Marais – stopping outside shop windows to say to Nick – look at these fabulous clothes, wouldn’t you rather buy something French? (The answer was always in the negative) – until we came to Nike shop – which was closed. The Nike shop was the only closed shop in the whole of Le Marais and there was a group of rather hopeful people milling outside hoping for the doors to open but they remained stubbornly closed and we stood outside for half an hour hoping they would change their mind.
This reminded me of something I admired and marvelled at with the French from our last trip – it doesn’t matter that there is money to be made (and judging from the number of people milling outside the doors to buy very expensive shoes, there would have been quite a lot of money to be made), the French reserve their right to enjoy their lives and not work 7 days a week. Finally we gave up and walked through Le Marais’ Jewish quarter looking for lunch. The backstreets were full of long queues which turned out to be people waiting in long lines to buy felafels. Another thing I’ve remembered about the French – they are willing to put up with quite a bit of inconvenience and trouble for good food. We, on the other hand, were here to eat French food, so we pressed on until we found a little restaurant where we enjoyed a lovely lunch – steak hatchet and chips for the kids and salad and fried sea bass/steak for us – washed down by a pitcher of Fume Blanc. Michael was keen to try some wine so we put a little into his glass with some water. It’s funny that such a FUSSY boy decided that wine was not so bad – he obviously takes after his parents far too much! Nick, curiously enough, was not interested in trying in and I guess I am very grateful for that (for now).
We felt a little revived after lunch, and decided that our search for Nick’s shoes must continue (sigh) at Galleries Lafayette in Opera. We didn’t feel up to walking the 6kms across town so we order an Uber and drove there in style. I had never been to this gorgeous store before, but we’re all impressed with its beautiful interior and the plethora of gorgeous, gorgeous French clothes. Nick and Chris both tried on lovely jackets and Michael explored the toy section on the top floor. Nick finally abandoned his need for yet more expensive sports shoes and decided he had to have the jacket instead (doesn’t he look gorgeous in it? ) and Chris and I decided to think about his beautiful linen jacket that we both feel in love with because it is a little small and more than a little expensive.
By now, beyond exhausted!!!! A taxi home, a quick shop for some staples (including more baguette) and quiet dinner of charcuterie, cheese, tomatoes and raspberries, an intention to watch a movie on Apple TV and then fast asleep on the couch by 630. All of us, except Michael, crawled off to bed (Michael had slept late that morning and had more stamina than all of us), exhausted, happy and ready for a new day and more adventures tomorrow.